skin brightening vs skin lightening

We Dig Into the Sciences & Real Differences Between Skin Brightening and Skin Lightening

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Skin brightening and whitening products are highly sought after by many who experience skin pigmentation, scarring, and several other radiative exposures from the sun, which causes uneven darkening of the skin.

However, I bet you yourself are still confused between these as they are somewhat, similar? Let’s keep on reading to find more info about the ingredients, sciences, and differences between these two.

What is Skin Brightening?

asian lady looking at mirror

Skin brightening is to increase the brightness, radiance, and glow of the skin. Often, it involves exfoliating, moisturizing, and face rollers & laser resurfacing, resulting in brighter skin.

What is Skin Lightening?

improvement of skin brightening

While skin lightening is to reduce pigmentation. It has to do with discolouration of the skin and evening our skin tone over time.

What Ingredients Should You Look for in Skin Brightening?

For skin brightening, you should look out for these ingredients: Vitamin C, retinol, alpha and beta hydroxy acids.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C helps to reduce the hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin by blocking melanin production. Vitamin C also blocks tyrosinase, an enzyme that is used by our body to produce melanin, making it a natural skin brightener.

Moreover, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps to protect our skin cells from further damage from the sun and outside pollutants. There are multiple forms of vitamin C such as Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid sulfate and ascorbyl palmitate.

It is safe to use vitamin C daily in our skincare routine, however, people with sensitive skin might see redness or feel stinging from the first use.

Retinol

Retinol is one of the most powerful ingredients for hyperpigmentation. It is a form of vitamin A and particularly effective at combating hyperpigmentation by encouraging cell turnover. It exfoliates the older, darker skin and bringing healthier, newer skin cells to the surface after frequent use.

For best results, you can use retinol for several months or more. If you are new to this, I would advise for you to use it 1-2 times a week, before you start to use it regularly – as the concentrations might be too strong for you.

One thing to take note is, please avoid to use it when you are pregnant as it might cause some birth defects.

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids

Have you heard of Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)? All these three categories are under hydroxy acids. They work similarly but each one produce different results.

In a nut shell, hydroxy acids smoothen, tighten, firm and brighten the skin. It exfoliates the skin by dissolving the cellular glue and exfoliating superficial, dead skin cells resulting in a healthy, younger skin. You can see significant improvements in your skin when you use it as directed.

treatments of skin brightening

What Ingredients Should You Look for in Skin Lightening?

Generally, skin lighteners contain an active ingredient or a combination of ingredients that reduces the amount of melanin in the skin where it is applied. Common skin lightening ingredients include hydroquinone, niacinamide, and kojic acid.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a reversible chemical brightening agent which works by blocking crucial enzymes (i.e. tyrosinase) in the melanogenesis pathway on the skin. It is usually used as a skin bleaching agent to tackle skin discolouration related skin conditions. The inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase results in a chemical reduction of melanin.

Hydroquinone has been successfully used for decades to treat conditions like melasma, helping to reduce skin pigmentation and even out the skin tone. However, since the effects are reversible, topical application is required to maintain the skin lightening effect.

Moreover, misuse or overuse of this chemical can actually cause several side effects such as dryness, irritation, and also ochronosis (which is a bluish-black discolouration caused by the accumulation of homogentisic acid, during the breakdown of tyrosine in the melanogenesis pathway).

It has been banned in some European countries due to the risk of causing cancer.

Niacinamide

One of my favourite ingredients! Niacinamide is made from niacin, which is also known as vitamin B3. Niacin can be found in most cells and are present in most metabolically active tissues, such as the brain, heart, and liver.

The human body is able to make small amounts of vitamin B3, and so, it must come hugely from food sources such as fish, red meat, and nuts.

It is used as a skin brightener mainly because of its excellent cell renewing properties. Niacinamide is widely considered as a skin brightener as it is also a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor which works similarly to hydroquinone to reduce melanin production on the skin.

There is evidence of niacinamide being used as an anti-ageing active ingredient. It is helpful for treating excessive dryness, helps produce more collagen, and also could act as a moisturising ingredient.

However, for effective skin brightening, niacinamide needs to be dosed in cosmetics at least 4% to help lighten skin pigmentation. For best results, combine it together with other proven skin brightening ingredients, such as vitamin C and retinol.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a by-product of a fermentation process during the manufacturing of sake (Japanese rice wine). Studies have shown the efficacy of kojic acid in skin lightening. It is an anti-oxidant and has melanin reduction properties.

However, kojic acid is very unstable in nature and upon exposure to sunlight or oxygen, it can oxidise and lose its efficacy. Research has shown that kojic acid is not cancer-causing but can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation if used in high amounts.

How to Apply Skin Brightening or Skin Lightening Products?

apply skin lightening products

While it is common and generally safe for your skin to use these skin brightening and skin lightening products or ingredients, knowing the know-how can make it more effective and less likely to cause irritation. Here are a few tips that you should know especially if you are using it for the first time:

  1. Start slow: When you are using acids in your skincare, start conservatively with a lower concentration, one to two times per week and then work up to see what your skin can tolerate.
  2. Patch test IS important! Similar to the other (new) skincare product that you’re going to use, do patch test before you use it. Apply a small amount on the arm and then on the forehead to see how your skin will respond.
  3. Sunscreen and hydration: As the skin brightening and skin lightening’s products expose newer and more sensitive skin cells, make sure to use sunscreen daily and generously. Don’t forget to hydrate your skin with the correct moisturizer AND drinking water as well.
  4. Consult your dermatologist: Some people might experience redness, irritation or peeling when you first use these products. If persistent irritation occurs, please consult a certified doctor.

The correct (and simplest) way to incorporate skin brightening and skin lightening products in your skincare is:

Cleanse > Hydrating/Exfoliating toner (AHA/BHA) > Brightening/Lightening Serum > Moisturizer > Sunscreen

Whatever your skin type, tone or condition, you can find the right one for you and with frequent use, you will find yourself a healthier and happier skin!

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What are parabens and preservatives?

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In recent years, consumers have become more aware of what products or ingredients they place on their skin regardless of marketing claims. Therefore, it is very important for brands to educate their consumers on what ingredients they put into their products before gaining trust from the consumers. Studies have shown that there has been a trend to reduce the use of parabens and preservatives in many cosmetic formulations for a variety of reasons including the safety of the ingredients themselves. Microbial contamination in cosmetic or food products may actually cause a major risk for the health of the consumer, regardless of topical or consumed products.

Preservatives are added to products to inhibit the development of microorganisms to increase the shelf-life of the products so that they can remain on the shelves for a longer time. They also have other functions such as to preserve the appearance of the food or cosmetic product, and also saving the products from spoilage from microbes. Parabens are considered chemical preservative ingredients used in cosmetic products, food products and also pharmaceuticals. They are able to prevent the growth of fungi, bacteria and yeast effectively and therefore are powerful preservatives for products which need to be shipped over long distances for longer periods of time. Parabens have been used more often because they have good antimicrobial activity, water and oil solubility, good stability over a wide pH range and also they are sold at very low prices.

Fact or Fiction?

Studies have found that parabens are actually able to penetrate the skin and even enter the bloodstream to reach parts of the body. In 2004, a group of scientists were able to find trace residues of “intact” parabens in human breast cancer tissues and suggested that these traces could have come from topical application of cosmetic products with parabens as the ingredient. Parabens are safe to use at concentrations of up to 0.4% (single paraben) or 0.8% (mixture), but when used consistently, they may accumulate and become a safety issue. Preservatives are also biologically active, and so, they may be toxic, and cause skin sensitisation.

Does The Lightening Serum contain preservatives and parabens?

No, na-dah, nyet, nein. The Lightening Serum by 28cubed does not contain preservatives as we do not want our consumers to experience skin sensitization and other health-related issues and several of our ingredients naturally have their own antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, such as maltol. With the presence of these ingredients and our packaging design, we are good to go without the need for preservatives. The cartridges are sealed once they are manufactured and filled and once open, they are directed to be used in a week. Within this time, there is minimal microbial contamination and the self-preserving properties of the ingredients are definitely sufficient to protect the serum for a good amount of time.
By delivering our product to consumers as hygienically as possible and doing our best to avoid contamination and bacterial growth within the product, you can be assured that our product is safe to use on your skin, with no unnatural side effects.

Find out more about The Lightening Serum and its 3 unique food based actives responsible for a revolutionary solution to excess pigmentation.

hypopigmentation-compressed

Understanding hypopigmentation with 28Cubed

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What is hypopigmentation?

Hypopigmentation refers to patches of skin on your body or face that lack colour or are lighter in colour from your overall skin tone. This occurs when your skin is unable to produce enough melanin and may be caused by a variety of different genetic or environmental factors. Examples of some of the most common causes and conditions are listed down below:

Hypopigmentation
(cr:medicalnewstoday)

Albinism

A rare genetic defect, albinism is caused when one’s skin is unable to produce melanin – causing their hair and skin to appear white, and their eyes to have less pigment. Because melanin serves as a means for our skin to protect us from the sun’s UV rays, albinos are more prone to sunburn and can cause burning, peeling, blisters, hard or wrinkled skin, and bumps or wounds that can develop into skin cancer and be life-threatening. Thus, it is important for them to adequately protect themselves from the sun by staying indoors and wearing sun protection.

Vitiligo

Individuals with vitiligo have patches of skin that are lighter in colour. These patches may be found all over their body and/or face. The exact cause of vitiligo is unknown, but it is believed to be caused by an autoimmune disease that damages melanin producing cells. The lighter patches of skin are more prone to sunburn and should be protected against the sun’s UV rays.

Scars and burns, Healed blisters, Infections

The healing of infections, burns, and blisters may result in scars that are lighter in colour compared to the skin around it – resulting in hypopigmentation. These forms of discolouration may be temporary or long term, depending on the individual.

Contact Dermatitis

Contact dermatitis occurs when the skin experiences an allergic reaction/ irritation from contact with a substance. These reactions often come in the form of red, itchy rashes and is neither contagious nor life threatening. This reaction could lighten the skin – resulting in hypopigmentation.

How do I cure my hypopigmentation?

As stated by DermNet New Zealand, hypopigmentation will likely resolve itself as the affected skin cells begin to heal. The skin cells in the should be able to produce melanin again within the next skin rejuvenation cycles. If unsure or you think your hypopigmentation could be a sign of something more severe, visit a medical professional for a consultation.

Hypopigmentation is defined as the lack of melanin pigment within your skin, on various parts of your body. This results in various areas being lighter coloured as compared to the rest of your natural skintone. Thus, because The Lightening Serum targets the production of excess melanin, it might not be able to even out your skin tone entirely.

However, if you do suffer from age spots, liver spots, melasma, or dark scarring on other parts of your body, The Lightening Serum will be able to even these spots of dark pigmentation out.

pigmentation story header

Understanding Hyperpigmentation with 28Cubed

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What is pigmentation?

Pigmentation is what gives your skin its colour and is caused by the presence of melanin. Melanin is the pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair, and eyes in all humans and animals- thus, darker skinned individuals have more melanin in their skin as compared to lighter skinned individuals.

Your skins’ pigmentation levels may be affected by a variety of different factors – genetics, your exposure to the sun, hormones, or even inflammation. When this occurs, your skin may become darker, referred to as hyperpigmentation, or lighter, hypopigmentation.

Understanding hyperpigmentation

An example of hyperpigmentation (cr: medicalnewstoday)

Hyperpigmentation occurs when your skin starts to produce an excess of melanin, resulting in a darker skin tone, or patches of unevenly darkened patches of skin around your face or your body. Melanin is a brown pigment, produced by melanocytes which are found in the bottom layer of the epidermis and give us the colour of our skin.
Listed below are the most common forms of hyperpigmentation:

Pigment spots/ age spots/ liver spots

Age spots are often described as flat spots on the skin which are darker in colour – usually dark brown, gray, or black. They develop on areas of your body or face which are more exposed to the sun. It is also believed that skin aging and high levels of exposure to the sun and UV rays are likely causes of age spots.

People most likely to develop such spots are those:

  • Older than 40
  • Those with fairer skin
  • People who spend extended periods of time in the sun
  • Frequent sun bed users

You may keep in mind that these darker spots are not dangerous and do not cause any health issues – however, if you believe that a particular dark spot may be an indication of something more severe, do visit a medical professional.

Melasma/ Cholasma

Also known as ‘the mask of pregnancy’, melasma usually occurs on the forehead, cheeks, and around the mouth area. These dark patches often appear on both sides of the face in a similar pattern. It is associated with hormonal changes and typically lasts until the end of the pregnancy. Women who consume birth control pills may also experience these dark spots from the changes in hormone levels. The chances of you developing melasma may be elevated if you spend extended periods of time in the sun. This is because ultimately melasma are darkened spots of pigmentated which is produced when melanin producing cells are triggered by sunlight or UV rays

People prone to melasma are:

  • Pregnant women
  • Women who consume birth control pills or any other forms of medication that might interfere with hormone levels  

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

A temporary form of pigmentation normally occurs when a skin injury heals, or when the skin is triggered by an inflammatory disorder ( e.g. dermatitis, or infections). When this happens, this inflammation and damage to the epidermis or dermis trigger melanocytes to produce excess melanin, forming dark pigmented spots that remain on your skin long after the wound has recovered. This is also known as scarring. It is recommended to apply sunscreen to the affected area to minimise darkening within the pigmented spot.

How does The Lightening Serum help you target hyperpigmentation?

The Lightening Serum by 28Cubed helps you achieve a brighter, more even skin tone by targeting the process of excess melanin production within your skin. This way, your darker spots are corrected from within, using our unique, patented blend of active ingredients – Po3™.

Po3™ works from the inside out, based on the skin’s 28 day rejuvenation cycle, instead of bleaching the skin using acids or peels. This ensures that the surface of your skin remains undamaged and healthy.